© PHOTOS BY CAPT. CHUCK
Pirates! of the Caribbean's True Tales, High Adventures on the Bounding Seas, Sailors Tales, Treasure, Gold
|
Bond. James Bond, was created here atop Strawberry Hill where author Ian Fleming spent his winters, overlooking the sea in a modest mountain-top house you can tour
|
CD: Sailing Adventures Cruising the Carib! Hilarious True Tales
|
Jamaica
(OF 50 TC)
Pirates had their first heydays on the south coast here
from the brazenly fortified city of Port Royal; iron fists ruling
the Caribbean until a 1692 earthquake ended what British
naval power could not; swallowing the wicked city under the
sea. Artifacts are on display at the archaeological museum.
Bond-Fleming came later, to the Palisadoes Beach near Port
Royal, where 007, Octopussy, Dr. No, and The Man With the
Golden Gun would Live and Let Die. This Caribbean Island
glows with its own heady, vibrant atmosphere.
Jamaica boasts some of the most beautiful beaches and cobalt
clear water in any hemisphere. But Jamaica is more than fine
Caribbean beaches. Winding roads course lazily around low
mountains on rolling farm land, lush, green, deeply
abundant.
The Black River trails down from high, rocky Cockpit Country
– where slaves once fled to escape – across fields where people
now grow sugar cane for the Appleton Rum Company; past
Maggotty Falls and on to the sun-splashed coast.
We stopped at a little road side stand for a jerk chicken or
curried goat sandwich, spicy ginger beer – a mite tart for my
taste just yet; should’ve had a Red Stripe instead. Despite the
vast coverage we’ve seen of hurricanes in past years, there is
little evidence here of major damage. Seawalls along the coastal
roads are rebuilt with the same stones after each big blow;
verdant foliage recovers, and its people quickly re-adjust to
their normal, reggae-calypso-lilting lifestyle.
Our road wound through small towns bathed in color; emerald
hills clustered in turquoise coves, Aqua-velva-ice blues, vibrant
parrot greens, girls in indigo school uniforms laughing in
groups – Jamaica’s compulsory education system, even
though wages are quite low, assures high literacy.
Around any corner the road will flash a sudden burst of the
flame bush, spectacular orange cup tree, or hibiscus. The island
is laden with flowers, coconut, and fruit trees such as the
oranique, a combination of orange and tangerine.
But most tourists are headed for the many resorts, which
Jamaica pioneered as singles and couples specialties, with its
Sandals, Hedonism, Jamaica-Jamaica, and Couples signature
concepts, its all-inclusives.
The island however, is not small; with many facets to consider.
From Negril, the western-most city, to Port Antonio near the
east end, it’s 185 rugged miles. Tip to tip, it offers six separate
venues from densely populated cities to near isolated outposts.
Two international airports serve the island, though most tourist
traffic lands north at Montego Bay. Southern traffic comes to
Kingston, the capital.
The resorts can be a 24-hour party blast, morning to morning.
The day starts with volleyball, tennis, beachball, touring, diving
and more. Breakfast isn’t served until 8:00 a.m., but after that it’
s all-out action, all day, until the disco begins at 11:00 p.m., just
after the beach show and dance. It lasts as long as anyone is
standing.
Reggie and Flora, a couple from Manchester, England, not quite
over their jet-lag, were in the pool at daybreak, anxious for their
morning tea. They settled for strong coffee and toast, though
they wanted “bangers” donuts.
Some resorts favor the group-think, the herd instinct: Get into
the spirit, you can’t stop. One man I spoke with was on his
14th visit. A woman was on her third, and planning more. “It’s
the freedom to do anything that excites you,” she told me.
Temptation is all around: Eat too much, drink too much, dance,
party; tomorrow promises more delights than you can make
use of.
Yet, many of the resorts keep a standard of decorum to suit a
conservative life style; a number of couples travel to Jamaica to
have sumptuous weddings, with families represented by several
generations.
Some specialized resorts also cater to families with children,
offering full time, experienced nannies to make sure the kids
enjoy themselves too. Says Freddie Depass, “Our baby
counselors are all well practiced, love children, and have as
good a time as the kids. They love their jobs.” With a strong
history of nurturing, Jamaica has resorts to satisfy every taste,
it would seem.
However, one day I stumbled through a brushy area to find a
large group of people standing in a swimming pool, less than
waist deep. Not until I raised my camera for a group shot, did I
realize they had all suddenly turned to stare at me. It was a
nudist gathering. I mumbled my apologies and got out of there,
before whatever the next incident might have been.
At the end of the week, Saturday, there were hasty goodbyes to
casual partners of the short, happy time, along with promises to
keep in touch. A huge truck pulled up to the resort steps for
luggage. That made me wonder what could be packed, since
most of the tourists had worn little more than bathing suits the
whole time.
The second uniform of the day was cutoffs and tiny halters,
worn mostly for visits to Negril’s art markets. They featured
fine wood carvings by a man named Shugah; as well as
fetching bikini bathing suits knitted to your order. Promises
knitter Natalie in sing-song Jamaican, “I guarantee it will cover
the important parts.”
Shell necklaces, inlaid earrings and the inevitable T-shirts also
might catch your fancy. Or you can have your hair corn-rowed
for only $20. Or, ride a Jamaican Donkey (!)
High on a mountaintop, visit Ian Fleming's unpretentious house,
where he wrote the famous James Bond spy stories.
Scuba diving here is equal to the best of the Caymans, for its
wall, reefs, fish life, gorgonians. It’s a short ride from the
beach, for snorkeling at 50 feet; not a half hour’s slog through
the surf.
At Rick’s Cafe in Negril, perched high on craggy rocks over
the smooth sea, you can watch daring local divers leap off a 50-
foot cliff into the lime-green ocean surge. If falling five stories
into warm ocean water triggers your fancy, give it a try. It's
also a great place to gaze into a fiery pink sunset.
Unforgettable.
And that comment just about covers every facet of a Jamaican
visit. You’ll want to go back again. Soon.
#####
www.visitjamaica.com
Jamaica, Pirate's/Bond's First Choice
CARIBBEAN TRAVEL GUIDE 14
Download the Book
Click 'Home' to order!
The full text: 247 pages of fun,hilarious adventure,
sailing
the Bounding Main! Just $16.95
-OR-
CD only $12.00 free shipping
Order Your own Pirates Pearls & Paradise Today!
Avast, Me Hearties, Ye'll Love the Voyage!